Copenhagen
Aamanns 1921 The temple of smørrebrød — Danish open-faced sandwiches elevated to an art form. The herring is silky, the roast beef is piled high, and every bite is a history...
EuropeA collection of 15 posts
From the azulejo tiles of Portugal to the kilns of Catalonia — ceramic traditions spanning centuries across the continent.
Barcelona
Cal Pep Squeeze into a stool at the counter and let the masters of the kitchen feed you. The fried artichokes are legendary, and the gambas al ajillo sizzle straight...
Careful not to Break: Pottery from Greece
We went as a family—me, my parents, my sister—on a cruise through the Greek islands. I was just a kid with no idea this trip would mark the...
Throwing Clay Near Sagrada Familia: Pottery I Made in Barcelona
I made these pieces myself, which still surprises me when I look at them. The wobbles in the walls. The places where my hands pressed too hard. The glazes that...
Terracotta and Tortilla: Coffee Cups from Madrid
The Madrileños will be the first to tell you they're different from the Catalans. Ask anyone in Madrid about Barcelona and you'll get an earful—about...
Cold Streets and Warm Soup: A Vase from Prague
I barely remember booking the trip. One of those cheap flights you find when you're young and living in Europe—fifty euros if you don't mind...